Country: Austria / Honivogl Smaragd
Variety: Grüner Veltliner Wachau
Winery: Franz Hirtzberger /
Chervil, lovage, watercress and yeast swirl headily on the nose. The palate subsumes these in a tight, taut, savory core of immense energy and power. There is muscle and tone, power and punch. If you are looking for a superlatively spicy, long-lived Grüner, this is the one to get. Underneath you will find notions of stone and earth that anchor this firmly. The finish is clean and long. Drink 2017–2020.